The Soul of the Mash: A Conversation with Master Distiller James Calloway
In the rolling hills of central Kentucky, where limestone-filtered water feeds ancient springs and the scent of charring oak barrels drifts across the countryside, James Calloway has spent the better part of three decades perfecting the art of bourbon making. As the Master Distiller at Heritage Creek Distillery, he oversees every step of the process — from grain selection to barrel aging — with a meticulous eye that has earned him recognition as one of the most respected craftsmen in American whiskey.
We sat down with Calloway in the rickhouse at Heritage Creek, surrounded by thousands of aging barrels, to talk about his journey, the future of bourbon, and why patience is still the most important ingredient.
BM: James, how did you first get into distilling?
James Calloway: My grandfather had a small operation — completely legal, I should add — making corn whiskey in the 1960s. I grew up watching him work, smelling the mash, understanding the rhythms of fermentation. By the time I was old enough to really understand what was happening chemically, I was already hooked on the craft. I studied chemical engineering at UK, but I always knew I'd end up back in a distillery.
BM: Heritage Creek has been around since 1892. What's it like being the steward of that legacy?
JC: It's humbling, honestly. When I walk through the rickhouse and see barrels that were filled by distillers who came before me, there's a weight to that. Every barrel is a conversation with the past. The bourbon I'm making today won't be ready for 8 to 12 years — so I'm really making whiskey for the future. That long-term thinking keeps you grounded.
BM: The bourbon industry has exploded in recent years. How has that affected what you do?
JC: The boom has been incredible for Kentucky and for craft spirits generally. But it also creates pressure to rush things, to cut corners on aging, to chase trends. I've seen distilleries release 2-year bourbon with a fancy label and a premium price tag. That's not what we do. Our youngest expression is 6 years, and our flagship is 10. You can't fake time in a barrel. The wood doesn't care about your marketing timeline.
BM: What's your philosophy on the mash bill?
JC: We run a high-corn mash — 78% corn, 12% malted barley, 10% rye. That gives us a sweeter, more approachable base spirit. But honestly, the mash bill is maybe 30% of the final flavor. The other 70% comes from fermentation, distillation cuts, the char level on the barrel, and time. People fixate on mash bills because they're easy to put on a label, but the real magic is in the details you can't see.
BM: Tell us about the barrel program.
JC: We char our own barrels — all #4 char, which we call the "alligator char" because of the deep cracking pattern. We source white oak from the Ozarks, air-season it for 18 months minimum. The barrel is where bourbon gets its color, its vanilla and caramel notes, the tannin structure. I personally taste from every barrel at year 4, year 6, and then annually after that. Some barrels peak at 8 years. Some need 14. The barrel tells you when it's ready.
BM: Any advice for someone just getting into bourbon?
JC: Start with what you enjoy. Don't let anyone tell you there's a wrong way to drink bourbon. If you like it with ice, drink it with ice. If you like it in a cocktail, make a great Old Fashioned. As your palate develops, you'll naturally start exploring higher proofs, older expressions, single barrels. The journey is the best part. And keep notes — even just a few words about what you taste. You'll be amazed how your perception changes over time.
BM: What's next for Heritage Creek?
JC: We're working on a new single barrel program that I'm very excited about. We've identified about 200 barrels from our 2014 lay-down that are absolutely extraordinary. Deep amber color, incredible complexity — notes of dark cherry, tobacco, brown sugar, and this beautiful long finish. We'll be hand-selecting individual barrels for release starting this fall. It's going to be something special.
Heritage Creek Distillery is located in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky and offers tours by appointment. Their flagship Heritage Creek 10 Year Kentucky Straight Bourbon is available nationwide.